I though it might be interesting as a one off to review 2 wines at once – primarily because they are both the same varietal, produced by the same winery, in nominally the same style, at price points that are not magnitudes apart (though in actuality 1 does cost 40% less than the other).
I am talking about The 2017 Tabor Gewürztraminer of which there are 2 – 1 in their “Har” series (called Mt. Tabor in the US) and the other in their Adama series. Both are made in the off dry style, both have tropical notes, and both clock in at 12.5% alcohol, but that is where the similarities end for the most part.
On opening, the Har seems to have nice tropical fruit on the nose. But then I poured a glass of its brother the Adama and I am reminded as to why I really try to only score and write up wines one at a time. You cannot help but compare one wine to the next. In this case though, because of the reasons outlined above, I decided to go ahead anyway. Compared to its brother, The Har barely has a nose at all and what it does have is very one note – lychee perhaps. The Adama on the other hand is full of tropical fruit – pineapple, lychee, and guava. Really floral as well.
Continuing with the stage by stage comparison, the Har is very light in body while the Adama is bit fatter, I’m not giving a preference here just pointing out the difference. The Har again is simpler in terms of flavor profile as well with lychee and melon primarily and is ultimately towards the sweeter side of off-dry while being balanced out by grapefruit pith (perhaps a bit much of it) on the finish.
The Adama on the other hand presents as fruitier, with all of that tropical fruit previously mentioned on the nose but towards the drier side of off-dry with more acid to balance it out and a touch of that pith and some spice on the finish. Overall, it’s got a bit more depth.
Which works better? That is going to come down to a matter of preference – Do you like a leaner profile, or a rounder profile? Do you like your wines dryer or sweeter? How much of your enjoyment is made up of smelling the wine etc. Ultimately, for me I like my wines balanced and both of these work. I guess personally, I like the nose and overall profile of the Adama – but is it worth a 40-60% increase (depending on how you look at it) to get the Adama? No. The Har is a far better value. In truth, neither of these wines are going to get me to run to purchase them again as if I am specifically looking for an off-dry Gewürz there are better options out there (though they also cost more) . On the other hand, you are not going to have a bad experience with either of these and in the right situation and certainly in a pinch, either of these will work.
After writing this though, I was left with the question – and these are things I rarely concern myself with in Tasting Note posts – what is Tabor’s strategy? There are a TON of off-dry Israeli Gewürztraminers on the market many sold in this approximate price range (NIS 30-50). Does Tabor really need two in its portfolio? Maybe a dry Gewurz or an off dry with with MUCH more depth might stand out more? Just a thought.
Bottom Line:
2017 Tabor Adama Gewürztraminer
- Price: NIS 50
- For Aging: No
- Would I Buy Again: Maybe in the right situation
- QPR Rating: Average
- Taste/Depth/Quality: Average +
- Overall Rating (1-5): 2.5
2017 Tabor Har Gewürztraminer
- Price: NIS 30
- For Aging: No
- Would I Buy Again: Maybe in the right situation
- QPR Rating: Good
- Taste/Depth/Quality: Average
- Overall Rating (1-5): 2.5
Thank you for the wonderful reflections